Friday, May 6, 2011

|Hollywood chic style of 1930s|

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1930s is often called the Age of Hollywood chic. The mode of 1930s is associated with long dresses with drapes worn by movie divas. The emergence of new fabrics inspired designers to create new forms. Feminine, provocative, emphasizing the figure silhouettes replaced tight corsets. Dresses with open backs were in vogue, collar clip and tailored on the skew dresses (proposed by Parisian couturier Madeleine's Viognier) firstly appeared. .


1. Bridesmaid dresses of organza, decorated with flowers. Jeanne Lanvin, 1938. 2. Illustration dated 1936: models of 1930s from fashion homes Guppy, Port Augusta Bernard and Schiaparelli.

Costumes were composed of neat, up to the waist jacket and skirt, barely reaching to the calf. A jersey suit-deuce created by Coco Chanel became an example of a sport image and became a hit in everyday fashion. In our time-piece suit-deuce is the personification of classical style, but a separate jacket goes with any everyday things and can put elegance in any sport image..


3.Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, 1930. 4. Black moire dress with crepe blouse in black and white stripes and a black straw hat with a magnificent bow. Chanel, 1938.

5. Black suit with white facings reminiscent zhabo. Moline, 1938. 6. Elsa Schiaparelli (right) with her friend, dressed in a skirt of their own design, London 1935.



Many new trends are born by necessity - after the stock market crash in 1929, the financial ability of the population sharply declined . The ladies could no longer afford luxuries tailors and designers had to switch to cheaper fabrics. In spite of this, the film star of those years - Katherine Hepburn, Bette Davis, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Barbara Stenvik-continued to show their sheens, which ordinary women could only dream of. Hollywood was an only showcase for design work at the time of economic crisis.


7. Green crepe dress by Jeanne Lanvin, 1939. 8. Crepe dresses by Lucien Lelong, 1935.

10. Openwork lemon-colored dress with appliqué and spherical sleeves. Jeanne Lanvin, the end of 1930. 11. Chiffon dress with silver sequins, front and back. Paken, 1930.

In 1930 women began to lead more active lifestyle, and clothing became freely and easier to wear. Inability to buy new clothes forced women to decorate their old clothes. Clothes were often repaired and reworked. Accessories assumed great significance - precious stones were replaced by jewelry. Thin leather gloves and “pill-hats” became the main part of everyday looks. Caps were slightly moving to the side and a turban was one of the most glamorous of accessories at the time. Details have played decisive role in the image: Belts should be wide, buttons - large, silk flowers and brooches - visible.
During the outbreak of the Second World War the designers turned to the topic of men's military uniforms and carried rough silhouettes in women's fashion. Frequently women preferred low-heeled shoes, pants, sweaters and simple skirts below the knee. But the military has become the dominant theme in the '40s.


12. Wool sweater hand-knitted by Schiaparelli, established in 1927. In 30s sweater became a sensation, as it was like a typical clothes decorated with a frill. ( Today similar jumpers can always be found at Sonia Rykiel and Jean-Paul Gaultier).

Designers entered the fashion silhouette "an hourglass”, a wide band of festoons and ruffles decorated the deep cuts. Collars and necklines bibs decorated with "cat bows” became fashionable.
Popular colours of the 1930's: a greenish-blue, pale yellow, grey, dark blue, green, brown, red. Fabrics with geometric patterns and bright colours were at the peak of popularity. Young ladies preferred pink, and black was used for evening dresses.


13. Blouse with ruffle collar and sleeves with bells by Edward Molyneux, mid.1930's. 14. Work by Christian Berardi "Revolutionary-red, ruthlessly cut " (1938). A woman in a bright red coat over the printed dresses, with a mask in his hand - everything from Schiaparelli.


15. Year 1930 black and white dresses by Viognier. 16. Dress with open back of the atlas in 1935.


17. Skirt with a coquettes often decorated with pleating wedge, which gave complete bottom-line skirt. In the photo typical 30-ies accessories: hat, gloves and fur boa, round neckline.
18. Coat of ermine, 1935. Furs were the most popular luxury - they were worn day and night. Hats, coats, boas and capes were made of ermine fur, chinchilla, and mink.


19. Samples of colored fabrics.

Main tendencies in printing fabrics:
-Bold lines and patterns in art deco style
- The letters and graphic elements, polka-dots, drawing from the hand of the circles of color motifs
- Contrasting colors
- Patterns in the form of pictures - animals cars, etc.
- the influence of Cubism and the individual artists - Picasso, Man Ray.

One of the style icons of America 1930 was the first female aviator Amelia Earhart. She had an artful mixture of sporty style and fashion. After each landing, she immediately took off flying goggles, and usually worn silk scarves and suits with slacks.

In 1937, when she turned 40, during round the world trip her plane disappeared in the sky over the Pacific Ocean. And it turned her from an icon to a myth.

5 comments:

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